Tried and True Skincare Regime for Acne
BY SOPHIE CHUNG
I am so blimen excited to share with you a skincare routine with all the facts and science to provide that dose of credibility you all deserve.
1 JUL - 2019
A good science-backed regime can make a huge difference to your skin condition and in turn, your confidence.
I’m not saying that fixing your skin is going to solve the litany of life problems you suffer from, but it will sure as hell tick ‘shit skin issues’ off your list so you can focus on other, more important stuff like finance, future planning, personal growth and your life purpose.
Although my skin is not quite perfect due to my poor diet choices - steak and pepper pies, ramen, pasta, pork belly, beer etc., - I have been getting an increased amount of positive response about my skin. Sharing is caring and I care a lot so here we go!
The Philosophy of Corneotherapy
On 8th May 2017, which is more than a year ago, I met Reika Roberts, Managing Director of Derma Aesthetics. She gave me a brief introduction to dermaviduals and their philosophy. Focusing on the widely regarded Albert Kligman’s corneotherapy philosophy, dermaviduals is all about keeping our stratum corneum in equilibrium. You may not know this, but a lot of off-the-shelf products like SLS or emulsifier -packed cleansers and exfoliators strip the shit out of your skin, which in turn, allow harmful substances to penetrate through the skin barrier.
Corneotherapy encourages the nurturing of the acid mantle and maintaining our skin’s harmony so that it’s strong and healthy to keep the nasty substances out and let all the nutrients be absorbed effectively for healthier, glowing skin. When there’s a herd of soldiers running to your castle with pitchforks, the obvious battle strategy is to set up a line of defence around the wall of your castle to fight off said weapon-wielding enemies. Surely, you would have seen this in Game of Thrones or literally any other action/war film.
If your skin is inflamed or irritated, it’s telling you “Woman! I’m in danger! Give me more soldiers!” But when you keep stripping the skin, time and time again, with harsh peels and whatnot, you’re the one who’s killing all your own soldiers. The skin becomes incredibly compromised and this is the beginning of the cyclic pattern that can lead to severe skin conditions.
There’s a bunch of other crap like fragrance, mineral oils, synthetic colouring, preservatives etc., in moisturisers and serums that can also affect your skin health. Read “The Skincare Ingredient Manual You Need To Avoid Applying Toxic Crap” to find out more about these substances.
By the time I was on dermaviduals, I had already been on a multitude of different cosmeceutical skincare regimes and had built up a wall of skepticism against off-the-shelf products. I tried an array of AHA/BHA serums, Vitamin A, B, C and hyaluronic acid serums, brightening serums, Resveratrol creams, you name it! These made a huge impact to my skin after I made the shift to science-backed ranges and I didn’t know if my skin would get much better from this point. But science truly has no limits.
Being introduced to dermaviduals was such a, for lack of a better word, game-changer. On that serendipitous day in May, I met Kate Michelmore of Skinography, my all-time favourite facialist in the whole entire world. She has the most amazing, spirit-healing hands and is very well-known in the industry for it.
I listed all the skin concerns I had, like dehydration, fine lines, pigmentation, sagging, scarring, congestion, etc., and she blended a custom Blemish Control Complexion Code serum for me.
Liposome concentrate plus
Laminaria Digitara Liposome
Liposome Concentrate Plus provides intensive care for blemished and rosacea prone skin and also reduces follicle size. This serum includes anti-inflammatory urea which increases skin hydration, calms the skin and also alleviates itching. Plantago Lanceolata Leaf extract is also an anti-inflammatory and has antimicrobial effects on the skin. It also includes Ceramide 3 for water-retention capacity, barrier repair and cell regulation. The main active is Azelaic acid - a non-toxic dicarboxylic acid with anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties - it treats acne by killing the bacteria that infects pores.
If you have skin that is prone to acne, you are most likely low in zinc levels. Zinc Liposome provides supportive prevention and care of blemished skin, supports collagen and elastin production and improves wound healing. It’s an anti-inflammatory that increases cell regeneration and repairs damaged tissues.
Vitamin A is the best skin regenerator. It concentrates in the epidermis and absorbs UV radiation to 325 nm, supports collagen formation and increases cellular regeneration. The active agent complex includes 6000 iE/g of Retinyl Palmitate. It has a 100% enzymatic transformation into retinoic acid in the skin once you apply.
Enriched with Niacinamide (B3), an effective skin lightening compound by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte; B5, which accelerates wound healing; Pyridoxine (B6) and Biotin (B7) for lipid metabolism barrier function; this Vitamin B concentrate improves hydration, reduces itching, sebum production and inflammation.
Laminaraia Digitata Liposome
Belonging to the family of brown algae, Oar kelp (Laminaria digitata) is found along the European Atlantic coast. It contains different types of sugars, proteins, amino acids, and vitamins as well as minerals and trace elements.
Encapsulated in natural phosphatidylcholine liposomes that support the penetration of low-molecular components, this serum stabilises skin hydration with ursolic acid, heals acne and supports skin barrier function.
"I didn’t know if my skin would get much better from this point. But science truly has no limits."
The Anti-Acne Skincare Regimen
All 5 ingredients were blended into a specific ratio to target all of the aforementioned skin concerns I had. Accompanied by the Plutioderm Plus moisturiser that contains Salicylic Acid to exfoliate and unclog pores, it also liquefies and suppresses sebum production and treats acne very efficiently. I can’t live without this moisturiser. It’s the solution to all acne issues. Dermaviduals have also recently released the Plutioderm Fluid which is simply amazing for spot treatment. You’ll wake up in the morning to fresh smooth skin and throbbing pimples will be significantly reduced like magic.
The most important part of all of this is using a good cleanser that doesn’t strip the skin. After I use an oil or balm cleanser to remove my lip and eye makeup, I always use the Total Cleansing Cream. It’s non-drying and awesome for sensitive skin. It's important to choose a cleanser with the correct pH as your skin will go red if you don't. Our skin's acid mantle and its microbiome depends on a very delicate balance of pH to ensure that it is working at optimal health and protecting us from external irritants.
And that's it! A custom-blended cleanser, serum and moisturiser is what I use to treat my acne. For days that my skin is taught or needs some TLC, I use my base gel which includes Hyaluronic acid, Liposome concentrate plus, Zinc and the Vitamin cream mask. It provides intensive nourishment and can heal dry flaky skin overnight. If you're suffering from distressed, extremely dry skin, Kate will be able to provide a prescription to cure it.