6 SEP - 2021
Elude a mysterious sense of je ne sais quoi by keeping your finger on the pulse.
word, heavy; intense contouring, full coverage foundation and concealers, pomade brows, baking; the looks from the new decade of 2020 have shown to favour our natural selves, but enhanced.
Lauren Hegley, MECCA Education Partner, gives us the ultimate lowdown on how to create the perfect, natural-looking complexion with all the it-products and shades to have you looking fresh.
With glassy skin being the most covetable look to achieve at the moment, what are your top product recommendations and application tips to create this?
With COVID and lockdowns being a common part of life over the past 18 months, we’ve seen a huge uptake in self-care and skincare as people are willing to spend more time on their skin and skincare. In terms of makeup, ‘clean’ formulations have been highly requested, especially cream and liquid formulations – they’re easy to use, and good for the skin – what more could you want?
Glass skin is that naturally glowing-from-within look, so starting with skincare is key. Since we are in the winter months, it’s super important to hydrate and protect the skin's barrier. My top recommendations for skincare would be anything with ceramides in it. Ceramides are fatty acids that occur naturally in the skin, helping to repair and strengthen the skin's barrier, diminish texture and help to hold moisture in the skin.
One of my favourite moisturisers at the moment is Sunday Riley ICE – it is a rich face cream that melts into the skin with a cocktail of skin-loving ingredients such as ceramides, vitamin F (strengthens the moisture barrier in the skin) and red algae (a calming ingredient that locks moisture into the skin).
With regards to makeup, the key to glass skin is ‘less is more’ – my recommendation is to use a light-to-medium coverage tinted moisturiser or foundation, and to only use it where coverage is needed. If you are going to go over with a cream blush, bronzer or highlighter, try not to put too much product on your cheek area, as this is going to create layers of product and could lead to separation or balling.
If you have any pesky spots that need covering in that area, try mixing some concealer in with your cream blush or bronzer and pressing on with your finger. This way, you will be able to conceal and create dimension without any imperfections showing through.
My favourites for lightweight foundation are the Kosas Tinted Face Oil and Chantecaille Just Skin. The Kosas Tinted Face Oil is a lightweight tint with medium, buildable coverage. The great thing about this product is that although it is oil-based it dries down, so it’s not too oily looking, but still gives a radiant glow. This product is best applied with a dense buffing brush, like the Hourglass Vanish Seamless Finish Foundation brush. Apply a few drops of the skin tint to the hand and work this onto your brush. Work in buffing motions starting with the t-zone, and blend out. Starting from the t-zone creates an even finish and doesn’t get that product build-up in the hair line.
Chantecaille Just Skin is technically known as a tinted moisturiser, but has the ability to build up. This product has the added benefits of skincare and SPF, which means your skin is reaping the skincare benefits while still giving you coverage – win! This product is best applied with a damp sponge. Start by squeezing some product on the hand and using a damp sponge gently pat onto the skin until you get your desired coverage.
The key with this look is to just create a sheer layer of foundation so you can still see your skin coming through. If necessary, spot-conceal where required. My recommendation for concealing is using something hydrating under the eyes, and something more full coverage and matte on spots.
For under the eyes, try the Kosas Revealer Concealer – this product has a great amount of coverage, along with skin brightening and tightening ingredients such as caffeine and peptides. Simply dot around the eye (careful not to use too much product) and press into the under-eye area with your finger – use the remaining product around the orbital bone for additional brightening.
For spots, the NARS Soft Matte concealer is great! It is full coverage yet weightless and doesn’t cake on the face. Apply this by either pressing onto the affected area with a finger, or using a buffing brush – my favourite is the Hourglass Vanish Seamless Finish Concealer Brush.
What are the lip trends that we ought to be trying out?
With the colder weather leaving our lips looking and feeling dry, hydration is key. But this doesn’t mean that we have to sacrifice a pop of colour. Some trends that I have been noticing more and more is a glossy bold lip. There are two key ways you can go about this – prepping the lips with either a lip treatment or balm before applying a creamy lipstick, or a pigmented lip gloss.
If you are wanting more of a bold lip, try the NARS Audacious lipsticks – they are a creamy lipstick with great colour payoff, and a soft-matte finish. These lipsticks are available in a range of colours – from natural nudes to deep reds and berries. My recommendation for a wintery lip would be Rita – a classic scarlet red that flatters all complexions and looks beautiful with a minimal, glass skin complexion.
To prepare the lips, my recommendation is the Tatcha Kissu Jelly Lip Mask – it’s a non-sticky formula with skin-loving ingredients that replenish, plump and hydrate the lips! If you feel that you want a bit of shine over a lipstick, simply pat a small amount over the lips once lipstick is applied to transform it into a pigmented, glossy pout.
If you are new to colour and want to ease yourself into it, try a tinted lip oil or gloss. My absolute favourite is the Kosas Wet Lip Oil – available in a clear lip treatment, or a selection of pigments. This product is a hybrid of a lip treatment that gives a beautiful, non-sticky, vinyl finish. My pick for winter is “Jaws” – a “hot-blood red” that makes the lips pop!
A couple of tips for this product – if you want a bold look, try lining the lip with a lip liner (try the MECCA MAX Pout Pencil in “Luxe”), and applying all over the lip. If you are wanting more of the lip stain, K-Beauty look, try applying a little bit to the inner of the lips, and rubbing lips together to disperse product – you still get the pigment but a lot more toned down.
lush is bigger than ever and we've been seeing the face-lifting draping effect everywhere. What kind of hues and textures are best for this and do you have any tips on how to approach this makeup technique?
Draping for sure has made a comeback from the 70’s, where ‘rouge’ was applied all over the cheek bones. I personally love blush as I think it brings life and dimension back to the skin after applying a foundation. Draping is a form of contouring by applying blush all along the cheekbone and through the temple. When doing a draping look, I will always apply blush to my eye crease with an eyeshadow brush to tie the whole look together.
Having said that, I don’t think that there are any rules when it comes to blush. If you are wanting a more natural look, try choosing a colour that is closest to your face when you aren’t wearing makeup and have a natural flush. If you are wanting a matte, full coverage look, my recommendation would be to use a powder blush.
If creating a satin look, try a matte blush – my recommendation is the Laura Mercier Blush Infusion in the shade “Grapefruit” – this is a sheer red coral that works for all skin tones. If you are new to blush and want more of a natural, rosy colour, try “Rose” – the great thing about this product is that it is buildable, so you can add a gentle swipe for a light flush or really build it up if desired (I personally do!). If you feel like the face is looking too matte, add a pop of highlighter to the top of the cheek and brow bone to bring that dimension back. When applying a powder blush, try the Mecca Cosmetica Blush Brush to gently swipe across the cheekbones.
If you are after a glowy look and are wanting to highlight the cheekbones, then I would recommend a cream is best for this. The great thing about cream and balm products is that they naturally give that “wet” look after applying, and if you’ve added too much product you can simply go over your mistake with a foundation brush or clean fingers. When applying cream/balm blush, you can use your finger by dabbing onto the desired area and patting in an upwards motion (to lift), or a dense brush – try the Mecca Cosmetica Complexion Brush.
One of my favourite cream blushes is the RMS Lip2Cheek products – made out of raw, pressed coconut oil, they double up as a lip colour – score! With the coconut oil base, this gives the skin a beautiful sheen and glow.
There are so many different blush looks you can try. My favourite two looks are: complimentary blush – this is when your blush, lipstick and eyeshadow all have the same undertone. On the contrary, another stunning look is contrasting blush – when the blush is a different hue to the lip – for example – using a rosy, warmer toned blush when perhaps the lip is a cooler, natural tone and the eyes have a wash of taupe. Play around and have fun!
When going for a dewy look, more often than not, longevity needs to be sacrificed. How do you make a glassy finish long-lasting?
There are a few things that can help with the longevity of glassy skin!
The first thing is a setting spray – my pick of the bunch is the Urban Decay All Nighter Setting Spray. The All Nighter spray sets makeup without jeopardising that glow that you have spent time working on with your foundation and blush. Just spritz over your finished makeup look and you are ready to go!
My second tip would be to use a good setting powder. The Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powders are great as they have colour-correcting particles that set makeup seamlessly and blur the skin without taking away any glow. My advice is to use a smaller brush like the Morphe M501 Pro Pointed Blender brush and gently pat over more oil prone areas – my go-to areas are the t-zone and chin.
Lastly, skin prep – making sure the skin is super hydrated and prepared before going in with makeup. When the skin is dehydrated, makeup will sink into pores and separate – this is because the skin is desperate for hydration and will drink anything on the skin! I talked about ceramides above for protecting the skin barrier and hydration, and another ingredient that is perfect for this is hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid holds up to 1000x it’s weight in water, and draws moisture into the skin. Try the Apotcare Hyalu Repair Serum under your favourite moisture to give your skin that drink of water it deserves, with hyaluronic acid to hydrate and niacinamide that helps brighten pigmentation, fight breakouts, and calm the skin.
Just bitten matte lip looks are still popular in K-Beauty, do you think matte will be back any time soon?
For sure, I think that matte lips will make a comeback – they’re easy for an impactful look without too much admin in regular top ups. A lot of people are apprehensive as it can dry out the lips and feel uncomfortable, but a lot of makeup brands are coming out with more versatile products that give the same effect without the discomfort of dry lips.
A favourite of mine for a matte lip is the NARS Powermatte Lip Pigments. These are a watery consistency, which means if you are trying to achieve the bitten lip look, you can apply sparingly to the lips, or you can build it up for a bold, opaque lip. Another great thing about this product due to the consistency, even when applying all over the lips, it doesn’t feel dry like you have a layer of lipstick on.
If you are wanting to try out the just-bitten look, try applying the NARS Powermatte Lip Pigment with a small eyeshadow blending brush – my pick is the Morphe M431 Precision Pencil Crease Brush. Apply the product to the brush and start from the middle of both lips, rub lips together and then with the remainder of the product on the brush, gently buff from the middle of the lips upwards – this creates a watercolour effect.
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